"Ma'nene" Form of Love That Still Lives Against the Dead

Maenene's rules or caring for corpses are different in each village in North Toraja. To make one burrow on a tomb stone, residents usually need three to six buffaloes.

The giant rock stands majestically on the corner of the hilltop. the sides were hollowed out in a square and covered with mahogany doors. The style varies. Typical of Toraja. The number is over one hundred. Inside the hole is a corpse. And most have been lined up or stacked in one hole.

During the trip from Rantepao, the capital city of North Toraja, to Tonga Riu, Jawa Pos also saw other large rocks with tombs inside. However, there is nothing as big as Lo'ko ’Mata which has been punched by more than a hundred burrows. The size is more or less the same as a three-story house.

Usually closed tombs were opened last Monday (11/9). Residents of Tonga Riu prepare to carry out the Ma'nene tradition. The procession runs for a week, until the following Saturday (9/16).

Maenene, understood literally, can have two meanings. Toraja people generally understand nene or grandmother, as is usual in other places, as parents of our parents or elderly people.

However, on the Tonga Riu, nene means a corpse. Want to be old or still young when he died, his call was both nene. with additions "ma" in front of him, Maenene can be interpreted as "caring for a dead body".

One of the residents who just opened the tomb on Monday morning was Thomas Randuan. His family's burrow was filled with four bodies: both his parents plus two siblings. one of them had just died about a month ago. "I have been home since August. But staying here while waiting for Ma'nene, "said Thomas after opening his hole.

For North Toraja people in the countryside, Maenene is indeed a tradition to show compassion to family members who have passed away. Marten Lbumbungan, one of the community leaders in Tonga Riu, explained that the love meant by Maenene was shown by cleaning or changing clothes and corpse. Take care of it so that it remains clean even though its body decays with age.

In addition, the family also included items or favorite food for the late life, mostly betel and coffee, into burrows. "That is not for worship. But it is merely a form of love for a family that is gone, "he said.

In the past the tradition was carried out by North Toraja people in general. But, now only residents living in rural areas in the mountain area are still loyal to do so. Maenene's rules are different in each village. On Tonga Riu, for example, is held every three years. but, in Baruppu, another village in North Toraja is held once a year.

Each burrow containing a body can be used for many family members. At most five on average. Depending on the size of the hole. And the size can be adjusted depending on the number of buffalo paid.

To make one hole, people usually need three to six buffaloes. There are two buffalo functions here. Before there was a hole, buffalo was used to pay for the chisel. But, when Maenene, as a form of thanksgiving. It was also adapted to family abilities. It can also be replaced with pork.

On the first day after opening, the burrow was left open without removing the body. A new family pulled out the body the next day. However, many tourists have come to Lo'ko ’Mata to see the process of opening the tomb. in fact, one of the tombs at the top can be accessed by curious tourists. However, the Tonga Riu people actually believed that stone burrows should not be entered by anyone other than the family.

When opened, you can see how the coffins or bodies are wrapped in cloth stacked on the inside. not all bodies are still stored in the chest. Generally, those who are wrapped in cloth have been in Maenene. While the ones that are still in the chest are on average new bodies.

The tradition of caring for corpses was actually carried out on the second day, Tuesday (12/9). a number of bodies that are felt to have rotten or dull fabric are removed one by one. While others, whose clothes or cloth are still good, are only dried in the sun to remove damp.

Marten Tonapa was one of the residents who carried out the Maenene procession on that day. he was accompanied by several family members removing his niece's coffin, Samuel Saring, from inside the hole. The coffin was among the first to be taken out of stone at Maenene this time. Suddenly, all tourists surrounded the burrow of the Tonapa family. Want to see the shape of the body directly.

No problem seeing at close range. Because, it didn't smell like a stinging corpse. Only, visitors remain careful by wearing a mask. "He died five years ago," Tonapa said while preparing for fabric replacement.

In the last Ma'nene, his body has not been booked because it is still in good condition. Now the white cloth on the inside of the chocolate chest starts to mold. A few centimeters of the lid is also decayed by termites. crate with a portrait of Jesus' Last Supper and His Disciples were no longer used to rest the bodies of Tonapa's nephews.

Instead, the body with a neat and bespectacled black suit was wrapped in a new cloth. Tonapa and his family have prepared a new cloth. the fabric used does not look like a special cloth with local patterns. Any cloth can be used. Even better if the cloth has memories with the deceased.

The base of the tarpaulin and woven bamboo are spread out. New upholstery was also opened on it. the niece's body was then carried and placed in the center of the cloth. All visitors who jostle scrambling to take pictures or just see the face of the corpse. His body is still intact, but has blackened. Like a mummy.
After long enough to provide an opportunity for those who live to see, Tonapa and family then repacked the body of the late Samuel. The first cloth is similar to a sheet, then wrapped again with a thicker cloth. the last cloth in the red flag is then firmly pressed with long white pieces of cloth.

Although said to be a ritual, the Maenene procession does not necessarily mean full of mystical elements. At least for now. The procession they are running now is more influenced by Christian teachings. "Because 90 percent of the Toraja people are Christians, the tradition of Maenene itself is later Christianized," explained Bumbungan.

He said, if Maenene had been marked by a ceremony in the field, now the opening of Maenene begins with worship at a nearby church. Likewise, when Maenene finishes, the community will perform the thanksgiving service in closing.

Also, all the bodies buried in the rock are Christian. Not that others cannot. but, according to Bumbungan, indeed there are no local residents who are Muslim who want to bury family members in Lo'ko ’Mata. "Because according to their beliefs, they must (be buried) on the ground," explained the man who lives in the Rantepao.

Then why in stone? "People here believe the stone will remain there, for the rest," said Bumbungan. Stone is believed to be a symbol of "strong and eternal". The bodies stored in it will last longer, not immediately decay as if buried in the earth.

All Tonga Riu residents are entitled to a place at Lo’ko ’Mata. Even though they do not live there, the nomads born in Tonga Riu or who have close relations with one of the Tonga Riu residents can also be buried there.

However, for relatives it is usually necessary to have nuclear family approval. The corpse may also stay in other relatives' burrows or be placed in concrete tombs temporarily. Usually it is done when the burrows for their own family are not finished. That also happened to Bumbungan. "My father was buried below (the concrete tomb building under Lo'ko’ Mata, Red) during the family burrow on a large rock has not yet been completed, "he said.

The procession of changing clothes and drying the bodies continues today (14/9). tomorrow and the last day, local residents will hold a "party" by slaughtering buffaloes.

Not all families can donate buffalo to Maenene this time. However, buying buffalo or not, Maenene remains a happy place for local residents. because, they can meet again with the bodies of loved ones and express affection to families who have passed away .

That's the stone Lo’ko ’Mata, the tomb stone in the Lembang (Village) area of ​​Tonga Riu, Sesean Suloara, North Toraja. Lo’ko ’Mata is the largest stone among other stone tombs on the hill north of the City of Rantepao.